Thursday, September 10, 2009

Roller Set on a Mannequin

Hopefully this will help a friend out or anyone else who is curious as to how to do a rollerset. This rollerset is done with magnetic rollers and clips on straight hair. This method is usually not preferred for loose natural hair wearers.

First, wet the hair completely and towel dry.
If done on an individual, shampoo and condition first, then towel dry by blotting (not rubbing) the hair.

Next, detangle the hair by combing with a wide teeth comb.
If done on an individual, this would be the time to spray on a leave in conditioner.

Use an inexpensive wrap lotion on your mannequin to help formulate the curls.

 place foam on hair

evenly distribute through out the hair

Begin sectioning the hair into 9 sections.
~This is taught in beauty school~

There will be 3 sections across the top of the head from ear to ear
from left to right 1,2,3

3 sections that go across the crown of the head  (4,5,6) and
3 sections in the nape area (7,8,9)

Now start at the front and center section (sect.2) and make a subsection. The subsection needs to be a size that will accomodate the size roller you are using. For my demo in the pic, the subsection is about a half of inch wide.
Also take notice at the angle I am holding the hair. This is called 45 degrees BEYOND perpendicular. This angle is very important to create a curl that is ON BASE which creates the fullest volume.

Keep the 45 degree angle and begin to roll the hair onto the roller. Roll towards you and keep the tension on the hair. If tension is not kept, a smooth curl will not form nor will it be easy to keep the roller in place.

keep the tension and keep rolling all the way to the scalp

once you have reach the scalp, place a roller pin at the base of the roller. Notice in the pic that this is a 2 prong pin. These are best when doing this method of roller setting.

clip at the base

A nice, smooth, secure roll.

Repeat steps down the center of the head. This should cover sections 2,5, and 8. Think mohawk.
The next section start will be either 4 or 6 across the crown. For my demo here I started to the right (sect. 6) and finished a the lower right section (sect.9) The rolling technique is still the same; 45 degrees Beyond perpendicular and roll the hair towards you.

another view of rolling sections 6 and 9

Continue on to the side sections. Here I started with side section 3 since I was already on the right side of the head. Once complete I will do the same to the left side of the head.

Believe it or not I forgot to take a picture of the finished roller placement on my own mannequin. I was super busy at school and suprised I got all of this done. Anywhoo, I found this pic of the finished roller placement. What I would point out here is, try to use the same size roller all over the head. If it's an individual, that may not be always possible because real people sometimes have different lengths on their heads due to a haircut or hairloss and/or breakage.

side view of finished roller placement.
If you are not use to doing a roller set like this, it will take time to get it right. Rollers will fall out. Curls will come out frizzy, but practice. Then practice some more. It will come to you. There is no niche or magic.
**I hoped this help Yolanda**
Stay with it girl ;-)

Disclaimer: In beauty school the sections of the hair are numbered differently. I chose to number this way for easy reference and reading.


  1. OMG...this post took me back to my cosmetology days....keep up the good will find doing hair very rewarding.

  2. excellent job, I have been out of cosmetology school for 8 years and this page was a refresher to me. The pictures, the explanations were perfect. Thank you so much!

  3. how do you do a full-base, one-half off base, and off base roller placement

  4. On base/full base= roll the hair at a 45 degree beyond perpendicular angle

    half base=roll the hair at a 90 degree angle

    off base= roll the hair at 45 degree below perpendicular angle